Coach Tom Randall: Training Strength for Endurance, How to Self-Assess Weaknesses, Max Hang Testing, Crack 101, and other Listener Questions
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In this special Listener Q&A episode, Coach Tom Randall explores:
- Improving endurance by getting stronger
- How to self assess weaknesses
- Is there such thing as “active rest”?
- Developing beginner crack skills
- Periodization for gym climbers
- Which crack size is the best to train
- What standard tests should climbers do
- How often should we test finger strength
- Building a cheap crack trainer at home
- Correlation between finger strength and climbing grade
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BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:
- PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.
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- ForceBoard: A better way to train fingers. Portable, accurate, and created to train finger strength and endurance exactly how YOU need it. Score $10 off and support the show by using code STRUGGLE10 at checkout.
- Nature Climbing: Beautifully crafted lifting edges and hangboards that feature real granite edges for improved texture and skin conditioning. Sustainably crafted works of art, I love them so much! Get 20% off everything at natureclimbing.com using code STRUGGLE.
And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals
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Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)
00:42 Listener Questions Overview 02:20 Personal Climbing Journey 03:22 Reconnecting with Tom Randall 04:36 Tom Randall's Training Insights 15:21 Self-Assessing Climbing Weaknesses 25:37 Active Rest and Recovery Tips 30:31 Learning Crack Climbing 36:54 Periodization for Gym Climbers 39:05 Adapting to Training and Periodization 42:03 Indoor vs. Outdoor Climbing 45:09 Crack Climbing Techniques and Training 47:46 Testing Metrics and Their Importance 53:52 Urban Crack Climbing and Unique Locations 55:30 Listener Q&A: Training and Climbing Insights 01:07:49 Encouraging Gyms to Set Crack Boulders 01:11:18 Conclusion and Bonus Content Announcement-
Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega.
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Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow
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This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!
