Weekend Warrior: Breaking into 5.13 Sport, Rising thru Yosemite Grades, and Beginner Crack School


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Weekend Warrior, Doug Hartman, joins the show to share:
- How to schedule workouts as a busy dad and ER doctor
- What worked (and didn't) on his road to 5.13a
- Comparing his hangboard numbers to mine
- What to do when a plateau hits
- How he broke through a hangboard plateau
- Why climbing fast isn't always best
- How gratitude helped him send his hardest route
- Going from noob to proficient Yosemite climber
- His four "rules" for crack climbing
- One simple tip to advance way faster in the Valley
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BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:
- PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.
- Rhino Skin Solutions: Perform, Cleanse, Repair… repeat! Amazing skin care products crafted specifically for climbers, whether you’re pulling hard indoors or out. Use code STRUGGLE to score a whopping 20% off your purchase!
And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals
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Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)
- 00:00 Introduction to the Weekend Warrior Series
- 01:08 Meet Doug Hartman: The ER Doctor and Climber
- 01:38 Doug's Journey to Climbing 5.13a
- 02:15 Trad Climbing in Yosemite
- 03:43 Upcoming Events and Personal Updates
- 06:22 Doug's Climbing Background and Early Experiences
- 14:07 Training Strategies and Overcoming Plateaus
- 32:14 The Importance of Rest and Mental Strategies
- 44:24 Training for the Crux
- 45:13 Project Duration and Effort
- 46:54 Realizations and Training Adjustments
- 48:41 Fueling Gains with Fizzy Vantage Nutrition
- 50:05 Introduction to Trad Climbing
- 51:15 Four Realms of Trad Climbing
- 52:06 Crack Climbing Techniques
- 01:01:16 Mental Aspects of Trad Climbing
- 01:08:58 Final Thoughts and Goals
- 01:11:26 Yosemite Climbing Insights
- 01:17:25 Weekend Warrior Wrap-Up
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Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega.
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Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow
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This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!