Weekend Warrior: Shift Work, a Case for the Unsexy Stuff, and the Power of Intentionality

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Weekend Warrior Dusty Millar is making it work! In this thoughtful convo we explore:

• Pros and Cons of a 7-on 7-off off schedule
• Shift work 
• Training without a climbing gym
• Yoga for climbing (and life)
• Getting better because he can’t climb all the time 
• The power of intentionality 
• Overcoming decision fatigue 
• Working with Neil Gresham
• Training pitfalls 
• 25-second hypertrophy hangs 
• The benefit of doing the unsexy stuff 

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• PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

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Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

 

00:00 Intentionality: The Weekend Warrior Mindset (Cold Open)00:57 Meet Dusty Millar: Shift-Worker Climber From Adelaide03:46 Climbing in Australia: Adelaide, Arapiles & the Grampians06:49 Dusty’s Background: Marines, Tattooing, Mining, Counseling & Yoga07:39 The 7-On/7-Off Roster: Life on Day vs Night Shift17:07 Training Without a Climbing Gym: Yoga, Calisthenics & Fingerboard21:07 Why Climbing Hooks Us: Flow State, Focus & Community26:56 Sponsor Break + Free Finger Training Clinic Plug29:18 Yoga Meets Climbing: Breathwork, Meditation & Mindset33:46 Home Weeks: Heat, Board-and-Dinner Crew, and Outdoor Project Days36:20 Goals & Grit: Chasing 29/30 and V9 as a “Blue Collar” Climber37:26 Coaching Tools & Why Neil Gresham’s Plans Stand Out39:55 Inside a 16-Week Training Phase: Structure, Options, and Decision Fatigue41:35 Training Mindset: Listening to Your Body, Managing Expectations, Keeping the Joy43:48 Outdoor Days & Current Projects: ‘Boulder Problems on Ropes’ + Thailand Trip47:51 Lifestyle Levers: Catering, Diet Swings, and Eating Mindfully49:50 What Training Works Best: Alternating Power/Endurance + Long Repeater Hangs53:45 Endurance When You Can’t Get to a Rope Gym + Adelaide Crag Access56:42 Host’s V8 Side Quest, Injury Fears, and Staying Resilient in Your 40s59:00 Prehab, Antagonist Work, and the 7-On/7-Off Rhythm (Plus Farewell)01:03:03 Wrap-Up & Host Update: Red River Gorge Day, Training Block, and Patreon Plugs

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Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. A hero indeed!

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Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow and @ryandevlinclimbing

 

Follow Dusty @nothing_but_hardwork

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This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!