Neil Gresham: How Busy Climbers Break Through Plateaus (Without Training More)

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Elite climber Neil Gresham explores:

• When it doesn't come easy
• The thing coaches don't talk about
• Turning life stress into climbing fuel
• How he trained Tim Emmett to send 14d / 9a
• The most impactful training modalities
• Why it’s good that most of us don’t train like pros
• His low inflammation nutritional breakthrough
• Technique pitfalls and fixes
• Why having kids can level up our climbing
• Chris Sharma‘s winning mindset

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BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Train harder, recover faster, and feel better than ever. I love all their stuff! Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.

• Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

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Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!

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Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 Psych High Time Low
00:28 Meet Coach Neil
04:39 Podcast Format Plan
06:19 Struggle Origins
10:47 Life Stress And Grief
15:34 Ebb Flow Training
23:14 Climber Or Coach
24:22 Masterclass Legacy
27:08 Sponsors And Patreon
29:29 Training Strength Battle
34:03 Building Strength Plans
38:52 Tim Vs Dusty Coaching
43:41 Training Load Templates
45:07 Stop Copying Elites
47:07 Quality Over Quantity
47:51 Recovery Days Matter
49:20 Collagen Sponsor Break
50:40 Nutrition Recovery Reboot
52:13 Low Inflammation Shift
55:03 Cut Booze Sugar Wheat
57:29 Carbs For Sleep Recovery
01:00:25 Nutrition Burnout Warning
01:05:14 Periodized Eating Cycle
01:09:49 Technique Versus Strength
01:13:02 Mindful Warmup Drills
01:18:48 Repeats Mirror Angle Hacks
01:23:36 Outdoor Project Tactics
01:25:03 Timing Peak And Conditions
01:27:04 Maintenance Training Diagnostics
01:28:08 Quality Over Volume Peak
01:28:57 Simulate Project Conditions
01:29:49 Avoid Project Burnout
01:33:32 Kids And Mindset Shift
01:34:09 Learn From Chill Crushers
01:35:39 Obsession Reset Lessons
01:37:11 Want It But Let Go
01:39:05 Tim's Meltdown Breakthrough
01:42:45 Modeling Calm At Crag
01:44:36 Belief Unlocks Grades
01:46:47 Conditions Can Lie
01:50:05 Coaching Confidence Hack
01:57:19 Stop Overthinking Redpoints
01:59:10 Work With Neil Gresham
02:01:31 Wrap Up And Bonus Plug

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The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

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This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

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The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.

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And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!