Noah Wheeler: Sending Burden, Finger Training (and Injury), the Next Proj, and the Dab Heard Round the World

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Elite climber Noah Wheeler explores:

• Specific training for Burden
• The dab ascent and what happened after
• Is Burden really V17?
• The change that unlocked the send
• Board climbing vs hang boarding
• Mindset tools to lock in for a send
• What Daniel Woods taught him
• Half crimp vs full crimp
• The next V17 on his list
• The happiness advantage

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BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com
• Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program.

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

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Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!

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Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 Secret App Launch
02:23 Noah Wheeler Intro
06:33 Goals and Process
11:51 Evolving Through Struggle
18:18 Board Training Origins
21:15 Board Sessions and Volume
24:05 Intentional Climber Break
26:07 Rehab and Burden Prep
31:10 The Dab and Redemption
36:24 Dab Send Debate
37:25 Grading Burden Reality
42:10 V17 Or Downgrade
43:17 New Beta Breakdown
47:12 Micro Beta Anchors
50:20 Arc'teryx Harness Spot
52:06 Nutrition Calorie Wakeup
53:08 Carbs Protein Caffeine
57:11 Tactics Trip Mistakes
59:44 Footwork Pull Away
01:02:39 Grip Strength Weakness
01:05:23 Finger Strength Metrics
01:05:59 Projecting Mindset Phases
01:09:52 Pre Send Mental Crux
01:11:36 Embodiment Tools
01:15:50 Happiness Advantage
01:19:35 What’s Next Plans
01:20:53 Board Style Dreams
01:22:55 We Will Rock Vision
01:25:24 Wrap Up Bonus Plug
01:28:00 Host App Pitch
01:29:28 Climbing Reflections
01:31:59 Final Thanks Outro

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Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow

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The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

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This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

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The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.

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And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!